The Origin and Definition of the Art of Tea
China is the birthplace of tea culture. According to The Classic of Tea, the practice of drinking tea began with the mythological emperor Shennong. Tea culture was later refined during the time of the Duke of Zhou, flourished in the Tang dynasty, reached its zenith in the Song dynasty, and became widespread during the Ming and Qing dynasties. The art of tea, or Cha Yi, encompasses the skills and aesthetics related to brewing and appreciating tea, belonging to the realm of life’s daily aesthetics and artistic practices.
There are three main styles of Gongfu tea ceremony: the Gaiwan style, the Teapot style, and the Gongfu method. This article will primarily focus on the Gaiwan and Gongfu methods.
Teapot Style
Since ancient times, the most common way for people to drink tea has been to brew it in a large teapot and share it amongst a group. The painting “Peaceful Spring Market” by Ding Guanpeng from the Qianlong era perfectly illustrates this traditional method of tea consumption.
Gaiwan Style
In more recent history, the gaiwan has become the predominant vessel for drinking tea, used by everyone from the imperial court to common households. The painting “Moon Gazing” by Leng Mei from the Kangxi era of the Qing dynasty is an excellent representation of this style of tea drinking.
A gaiwan, also known as a “Sancai Wan” (three-part bowl), consists of a lid, a bowl, and a saucer. These components carry symbolic meaning: the lid represents the heavens, the saucer represents the earth, and the bowl represents humanity. Typically, the lid is slightly smaller than the bowl’s opening, designed to sit just inside the rim, though some styles feature a lid that covers the entire top. Gaiwans are primarily made from porcelain or Zisha purple clay and are often decorated with patterns such as blue-and-white, enamel, or monochrome glazes.
Basic Steps of the Gaiwan Tea Ceremony
Step One: Appreciate the Tea
Place a small amount of tea leaves onto a tea holder (cha he). Observe the shape and color of the leaves, and take a moment to inhale their delicate fragrance.
Step Two: Add the Tea
Using a tea scoop, gently transfer the leaves from the tea holder into the gaiwan. Be careful not to spill any leaves.
Step Three: Rinse the Tea
Pour hot water into the gaiwan and immediately discard the infusion. For aged teas, this rinsing step may need to be repeated.
Step Four: Add Water
Fill the gaiwan with hot water at the appropriate temperature for the type of tea you are using. The water level should be just below the rim so that the lid does not touch the water. Different types of tea require different water temperatures.
Step Five: Steep the Tea
After adding water, cover the gaiwan with its lid and allow the tea to steep for a short period before pouring. If the infusion time is too long, the tea will become bitter and astringent, which will also weaken the flavor of subsequent infusions. It is better to steep for a shorter time than a longer one; with practice, you will develop a feel for the perfect timing.
Step Six: Pour the Tea
Tilt the lid slightly to create a small gap, allowing the tea to flow out while holding back the leaves. Quickly pour the tea from the gaiwan into a serving pitcher (gong dao bei). This movement should be performed with a relaxed shoulder and elbow, and a raised wrist.
Step Seven: Serve the Tea
Pour the tea from the serving pitcher into small teacups. Fill each cup to about 80% full, which makes it easier for guests to hold.
Common Gaiwan Holding Techniques
The Grasping Method
Hold the gaiwan from top to bottom with your entire hand. Place your thumb on the lid’s knob and use your other fingers to support the bottom of the bowl as feels comfortable. This method is straightforward and presents a confident air, but it can be easy to burn your fingers.
The Three-Finger Method
This is the most common technique. First, adjust the lid to create the desired opening for pouring. Place your index finger on the lid’s knob, use your thumb and middle finger to grip the rim of the bowl on opposite sides, and curl your ring and pinky fingers next to your middle finger for support. The image in the “Pour the Tea” step demonstrates this method.
The Gongfu Method
The Meaning of Gongfu Cha
“Gongfu Cha” refers to the “Chao-Shan Gongfu Cha” ceremony. It is not a type of tea leaf but rather a specific brewing technique that requires a particular set of teaware. It is called Gongfu Cha because the brewing process is meticulous and demands considerable skill and effort—the “gongfu” refers to the knowledge in brewing and the art of tasting.
The Origins
As the poet Su Zhe wrote, “The teas from Fujian are the finest under heaven; people devote themselves to tea without feeling weary.” Gongfu Cha originated in the Song dynasty and is most popular in the Chaoshan region of Guangdong province, as well as in the Zhangzhou and Quanzhou areas of Fujian. It is a continuation and in-depth development of the tea-tasting arts from the Tang and Song dynasties.
The Flavor
Gongfu Cha is known for its high concentration. A first-time drinker might find it bitter, but once accustomed, other teas may seem to lack flavor in comparison. This method uses Oolong teas, such as Tieguanyin, Shuixian, and Fenghuang Dancong. Oolong is a semi-fermented tea, falling between red (black) and green tea, and only this category of tea can produce the rich color, aroma, and flavor required for Gongfu Cha.
The Benefits
Aids in restoring vitality, nourishes the body and spirit, sharpens the mind, and promotes a youthful appearance.
The Method
The basic steps are similar to the Gaiwan method, but the central vessel is a teapot instead of a gaiwan.
Step One: Appreciate the Tea
Same as the Gaiwan method.
Step Two: Warm the Pot
Before adding tea leaves, fill the empty teapot with hot water, then pour the water out into the tea boat (cha chuan).
Step Three: Fill the Pot
Typically, the teapot is filled two-thirds full with tea leaves, sometimes even to the point of overflowing.
Step Four: Rinse the Tea
Pour boiling water into the pot until it is full. Use a bamboo stick to scrape away any foam from the surface, and immediately pour this rinse into the tea boat.
Step Five: Brew the Tea
Fill the pot with hot, but not boiling, water. This is the first infusion.
Step Six: Douse the Pot
After placing the lid on, pour hot water over the entire teapot to ensure the temperature is consistent inside and out.
Step Seven: Warm the Cups
While the tea is steeping, use the water from warming the pot and rinsing the tea to wash the teacups in the tea boat.
Step Eight: Handle the Pot
Once the first infusion is ready, lift the teapot and circle it along the edge of the tea boat a few times. This move, poetically known as “touring the mountains and rivers,” prevents water from the bottom of the pot from dripping into the cups and altering the taste.
Step Nine: Pour the Tea
Arrange the warmed teacups in a line and pour the tea into them in a continuous back-and-forth motion, a technique called “patrolling the river.” Alternatively, pour the tea into a serving pitcher first and then into the cups. It is crucial to avoid filling one cup completely before moving to the next, as this would result in an uneven concentration of flavor—a common mistake among novice drinkers.
The Essence of Tea
To savor tea is to do more than just taste a beverage; it is to enrich oneself with the spirit of its deep cultural heritage. Allow the pure aroma of the tea to wash away the troubles of life, to soothe tense nerves, and to fulfill your emotional spirit. When gathering with friends or meeting a kindred spirit, take the time to savor the profound essence found within a cup of Gongfu tea.